What are some preamps that you recommend?
I have had multiple customers report being happy with one of the following:
— Topping Pre90
— Gustard X26
— SMSL HO200
If you are specifically looking for a tube or hybrid preamp, here are some options that customers have reported work well:
— Schitt Freya+
— Black Ice preamps
— Rogue preamps
Also, note that if you plan on using one of our PecanPi or PecanPi+ products they act as a preamp as well, and a preamp is not needed, unless you need the additional functionality of switching inputs.
Can the amplifiers be upgraded in the future?
Yes. My amplifiers use a modular design, and each module can be upgraded in the future. Also if you purchase a lower-cost amplifier configuration and want to upgrade in the future this is possible, for example upgrading from the Stereo Ultra to the Stereo Ultra DMC.
Can the amplifier be connected to a subwoofer (sub) using the high-level input?
Yes. Ensure you follow the subwoofer manufacturer’s instructions for connecting a fully differential amplifier. This is also the method that I recommend for integrating subs into your system.
What voicing does the amplifier have?
My amplifiers are designed to not have any voicing. They are neutral, transparent, and true to the source. What you feed in is what you get out (straight wire with gain).
Will the 150W amps be enough power for me?
Please read my other blog post at this link, this will help you make this decision.
For certain types of speakers I recommend the Ultra (500W) amplifiers, they are:
— Electrostatic speakers
— Magneplanar speakers (Magnepan)
What is the difference in sound between the 150W and 500W amplifiers?
As you go up in price with my amplifier the bass performance and transient response improve. Above 300Hz the amplifiers will sound very similar.
Also, note that while the monoblock versions of my amps have identical performance to the stereo ones, monoblocks can be placed close to the speaker using a very short speaker cable, this gives them the advantage when used this way.